MR PORTER’s Guide to Mexico: Where to Go, What to Do and What to Wear.

originally published on MR PORTER - February 2024

Mr James Taylor might have said it best, when he sang, “Oh, Mexico/It sounds so sweet with the sun sinking low… I’ve never really been so I don’t really know/Oh, Mexico/I guess I’ll have to go.” So I did. Having only visited Tulum previously (and being assured by locals that this isn’t “real” Mexico), I made it my mission to see as much of the country as possible. In fact, I spent three months answering the call of beachy sunsets, ramshackle surf towns and endless tacos, and can confirm what I suspected to be true all along: there’s a whole lot more to Mexico than spring-break resorts and Cancun mega hotels. Here’s a run-down of places that should be making your 2024 travel bucket list.

01.

Mexico City

Chances are you’ll have seen one of your more stylish friends Instagramming pictures of Roma Norte’s tree-lined avenues. In recent years, this has become the most popular area of Ciudad de Mexico (or CDMX) for stylish Statesiders looking for a quick weekend away. With several of the world’s best restaurants, the country’s most thoughtfully curated museums and a whole lot of colour, it’s time to stop sleeping on Mexico City.

Colima 71 is Roma Norte’s newest boutique hotel opening and an ideal base for exploring the area on foot. The 16-room hotel was designed by renowned Mexican architect Mr Alberto Kalach and celebrates Mexico’s native architecture, gastronomy and art. There are artworks throughout, and each room features artisanal grooming products (and a miniature bottle of local mezcal) from Mexican producers. All guests can enjoy an exclusive “morning coffee” service where a Colima 71 barista hand delivers each guest’s preferred coffee or tea order directly to the room, along with pastries from nearby Panaderia Rosetta – talk about a wake-up call.

After you’ve fuelled up, you’re ready to explore the city. First up, head to the Frida Kahlo Museum in the leafy Coyoacán neighbourhood. Book your tickets at least a month in advance (trust us on this one) and be prepared to spend a few extra pesos if you want to take pictures (you will). Situated in the artist’s childhood home, Blue House, the museum is filled with artefacts, letters and journals as well as several original pieces. Her husband Mr Diego Rivera’s large-scale murals are also worth checking out at the Diego Rivera Mural Museum.

If you are in town on a Sunday most of the city’s museums are free to enter; the big hitters are in or around the sprawling Chapultepec Park. We’d recommend the Museo Nacional de Antropología, which has the largest collection of Mexican and pre-Hispanic art in the world, and Museo Tamayo Arte Contemporáneo for your modern art fix.

“With several of the world’s best restaurants and a whole lot of colour, it’s time to stop sleeping on Mexico City”

After all that sightseeing, you’ll need to eat. For fine dining, make reservations at Contramar for phenomenal seafood, Rosetta for inventive Italian or Quintonil for thoroughly modern Mexican – all three have made The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in recent years.

While the city excels in fine dining, its street food is also world class. Head to the corner of Colima and Merida in Roma and pick up one of Jenni’s famous quesadillas. Want to try Mexico’s famous elotes (that’s corn coated in mayo, chilli powder and cheese)? Our favourite can be found at the entrance to Mercado Jamaica. If that’s your starter, then make the barbacoa tacos at El Profe inside the market your main course. Still craving something sweet? The churros at El Moro are the city’s choice for a reason.

02.

San Miguel de Allende

Dubbed the “best small city in the world” by Condé Nast Traveler, San Miguel de Allende has caught the eye (and hearts) of discerning expats looking to build a new life in Mexico. The beautiful town, which is just a 3.5-hour drive from Mexico City, has an ever-growing international community whose influence is reflected in San Miguel’s diverse offering of restaurants, fitness classes, wineries and art galleries.

The town’s most impressive hotel is Casa de Sierra Nevada, A Belmond Hotel. Each of the hotel’s six buildings are hidden in plain sight among the town’s cobbled streets. Open each unassuming door and you enter a sumptuous paradise of hidden courtyards, wrought-iron fixtures and lush vegetation. As you’d expect from any Belmond property, the rooms are luxurious but cosy, adorned with local textiles and most feature a private terrace, too, perfect for relaxing after a long day exploring San Miguel’s winding streets.

For those looking for lodgings a little more remote, just 10 minutes outside town you’ll find Our Habitas San Miguel – a new kid on the block – with community at its heart. Each cabin looks out onto the surrounding hills and guests can take their pick from a handful of daily activities: think paint-and-sip evenings, cooking classes, macramé and yoga.

“The ‘best small city in the world’ has an ever-growing international community”

With an international crowd comes world-renowned cuisine, and there is no shortage of places to eat and drink in San Miguel de Allende. Casa de Sierra Nevada’s restaurant Andanza is one of the town’s most sought-after seats for guests and visitors alike, and serves innovative Mexican cuisine in a sheltered courtyard setting. At Sai-kó, expect nigiri and sashimi served in a low-lit lounge; make your reservation late enough to be around when the DJ starts spinning.

For a nightcap head to Bekeb rooftop and order a Carajillo Allende – the bar’s take on an espresso martini. If you fancy a taste of the town’s burgeoning natural wine scene, visit Cava Garambullo, a biodynamic winery set on the outskirts of the city.

Much of San Miguel’s appeal lies in its charming, colourful streets and you can easily fill your days wandering and exploring local boutiques, markets and galleries; Mixta, the Mercado de Artesanías and La Fabrica la Aurora are worth adding to your list.

The region is also known for its stunning countryside – and what better way to explore than on horseback? Set on a rural hacienda on the outskirts of town you’ll find Rancho del Sol Dorado. As well as hosting a monthly bazaar of local artisans on the first Saturday of each month, the ranch run by husband-and-wife duo Mr Mario and Ms Holly Ortiz is the best place to saddle up and explore the surrounding villages. The team at Sol Dorado can organise rides for all ability levels and each excursion ends with the ranch’s signature “cowboy coffee”: (very) fresh goat’s milk, coffee and, naturally – this is Mexico after all – a shot of tequila.

03.

Oaxaca City

Deep in the southern heart of Mexico lies the city of Oaxaca, the capital of the eponymous state. Surrounded by ancient archeological sites and steeped in colonial history, it is often hailed as Mexico’s culinary capital, and proudly mixes ancient traditions with a lively cultural scene. Today, Oaxaca is attracting a cohort of exciting chefs, artists and creatives set on making their mark.

Grana B&B is a wonderful example of a property that honours Oaxaca’s history while remaining modern and thoughtful within. Situated in a renovated 18th-century mansion on a quiet street seconds from the Santo Domingo church, Grana makes for a homely base when exploring the city. Traditional Mexican breakfast is prepared daily on-site (chilaquiles, anyone?) and the property is filled with pottery from local artisan Manos Que Ven – also known as Mr José García Antonio, a sculptor who, despite being blind, makes wonderfully playful pots and figures.

Get your bearings with a walking tour of the historic city before braving one of the bustling markets (Mercado 20 de Noviembre is the best known and a true assault on the senses). For those looking to understand more about local communities, non-profit Fundación En Via invites travellers to join them on one of their tours – visiting women-led businesses in the indigenous villages surrounding Oaxaca that benefit from their micro-finance project.

If you are lucky enough to be visiting during the annual Dia de los Muertos celebrations in November, En Via runs Day of the Dead tours that give you a glimpse into how people commemorate their loved ones. You will spend the day preparing an altar with a local family before sharing lunch and swapping stories.

Food is the lifeblood of Oaxaca and the city is overflowing with fabulous eateries and bars. For a unique dining experience, however, we recommend Alfonsina, in the nearby village of San Juan Bautista la Raya. Here you’ll find an unassuming restaurant with just a few tables set in the courtyard of chef Mr Jorge León’s childhood home. Book in advance to enjoy five courses based on whatever León has found in Abastos Market that day: think mole, fresh tortillas and steaming guisos.

If you are interested in learning how to recreate mole at home, the family-run culinary school Que Rico is the perfect place to brush up on your cooking skills and learn how to create a three-course Mexican meal for yourself using founder Alfonso’s mother’s recipes.

04.

Riviera Nayarit

Perched on the Mexican Pacific, Riviera Nayarit beckons surf enthusiasts with its accessible waves and sleepy beach towns. From the expat hub of Sayulita and the vibrant Puerto Vallarta to the charming hippie haven of San Pancho, there is something for every sort of beach bum on this stretch of coastline.

Just an hour outside of Puerto Vallarta on Nayarit’s rugged coast lies One&Only Mandarina. This stunning resort is worlds away from Puerto Vallarta’s all-inclusive offerings and embodies quiet luxury at every turn. Spread across 80 acres of jungle, it is made up of 105 private villas and treehouses, each with butler service and plunge pools. Guests are invited to enjoy the spa where treatments are heavily influenced by indigenous and pre-Hispanic cultures, or dine at Carao, an on-site restaurant helmed by Mexico’s most celebrated chef, Mr Enrique Olvera. The property also boasts two pools, a polo club and a kids’ club designed by the Academy Award-winning art director Ms Brigitte Broch (of Romeo+Juliet and Moulin Rouge fame).

If you are after something a little more boutique (or with easier access to the surf), Don Bonito in nearby Sayulita makes a stylish base for exploring the coast. Steps from the beach, this design-led hotel offers cosy rooms, the best iced coffee in town and yoga classes at its studio, The Rose Room.

Ready to catch waves? Go to Lunazul Surf School for beginners, while those looking for a more challenging session can try nearby beach La Lancha, which is known for its almost-perfect tubes.

If you’re not called to the waves, the duo behind Wanderlust Sayulita offer guided 5km coastal hikes that end in an al fresco yoga session on the beach – a perfect reset after one too many mezcal margaritas at Escondido, one of Sayulita’s best cocktail bars.

05.

Puerto Escondido

Often hailed as the “next Tulum”, Puerto Escondido (Puerto, as it’s known to locals) is another surfer’s paradise, this time located on the Oaxacan coast. Known as the home of the “Mexican pipeline” – one of the world’s heaviest breaks – it has all the trappings of a laid-back surf town built on a wave. But there is more to Puerto than surf shops and smoothie bowls. In the past few years, a handful of properties pushing the boundaries of design have opened in the town, ushering in a new crowd of aesthetic-minded creatives and digital nomads.

For a breezy sanctuary away from the midday sun, head to Casa TO at the La Punta end of the beach. Greeted the moment you set foot into this property by its focal point, the infinity pool, you’ll have no trouble whiling away the hours in the shaded, well-stocked bar before heading to the beach to watch one of La Punta’s famous sunsets. And, with just nine suites, you’ll never find communal areas overcrowded.

If you are to stay beachside, Casona Sforza is another architectural marvel just a 10-minute drive from La Punta. The hotel building comprises several billowing arches made out of golden brick and each suite looks out onto both the pool and the beach behind.

Luxury beach cabanas, a handful of hammocks and a popular restaurant mean you don’t have to leave the property if you don’t want to. But if you do venture out, try its inland sister property Pueblo del Sol, an eco-retreat based in the mountains about an hour from Puerto. In striking contrast to Sforza, here you can spend the day immersed in nature exploring the dense jungle with a local guide, or take a pottery class in the working studio and enjoy dinner cooked by a private chef to the sound of the cicadas.

Days in Puerto are best spent in the water. Of course, there’s world-class surf, but you can also charter a boat for dolphin spotting or spearfishing. However, if it’s culture you are after, a trip to Casa Wabi – the sleek artists retreat-cum-gallery – should make your itinerary. Designed by Japanese architect Mr Tadao Ando, Casa Wabi is open to the public with three tours daily.

After a day surfing, you might have fish tacos on your mind. For the best in Puerto head to the aptly named Fish Shack. Order the super-sized coconut shrimp tacos and a local beer. If you’re sick of Modello, Glou Glou is the best spot in town for wine. The selection of natural wines is unmatched (and includes some funky Mexican bottles), and their tasting menu rivals any of the big hitters you’d find in CDMX. For ceviche, the popular Peruvian spot Chicama delivers every time. Arrive early and be prepared to stand in line – it’s worth the wait.

MR PORTER’s Guide To Mexico: Where To Go, What To Do And What To Wear