Sumba: An Island Clinging To Tradition
originally published on citizen femme - march 2025
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When travellers who have been lucky enough to experience Sumba speak of it, it tends to be in an emphatic whisper.
Unlike its bustling neighbour Bali – just a one-hour flight away – Sumba hasn’t fallen victim to over-tourism. You could go as far as to say that the island is in its infancy regarding visitors. Despite being nearly the same size as Jamaica, Sumba has only a handful of hotels and very little tourist infrastructure to speak of, but don’t let that put you off.
“Don’t expect nightlife and lots of activities. Any exploration of the island beyond your hotel needs to be planned ahead,” explains photographer and self-confessed hotel fanatic Robyn North, continuing to say that “you won’t see anyone on laptops or phones. If you need some tropical TLC, this is the island for you.” When you visit Sumba, expect to disconnect and truly immerse yourself in the local Marapu culture while absorbing the inexplicable feeling that permeates the air here.
It’s this unique feeling that the hoteliers who have made Sumba their home strive to preserve. “There’s a recharging, regenerative energy that guests often experience here, likely because locals lead such a simple, connected life,” explains hotelier and co-owner of The Sanubari resort, Rowan Burn. The Sanubari, located on the island’s south coast, features eleven private villas (with more on the way) and offers a truly off-grid experience. Of course, there is Wi-Fi, but upon arrival, you won’t think twice about your phone.
Instead, you’ll likely spend long, languid days moving (very slowly) between your own private pool and the 2.5 kilometre of pristine white sand surrounding each villa. Photographer Hannah Dace visited the hotel in 2023 and fell for the charms of The Sanubari: “It’s one of my favourite hotels. There are 100 hectares of grounds to explore, including rice paddies, palm-tree-lined pathways, and an enchanting beach where buffalo roam. But it really comes down to the feeling I got when I was there – one that’s hard to express in words –of genuine magic.” There it is: that feeling again.
The Sanubari is one of a few hotels tempting discerning travellers to Sumba, but NIHI Sumba started it all. Nihiwatu, the resort’s first iteration, was opened in 2001 by American surfer Claude Graves, catering to adventurous surfers seeking uncrowded breaks. The essence of the original low-key beach retreat has somehow endured since the property was acquired by American entrepreneur Christopher Burch and renowned hotelier James McBride in 2012 – despite it now being one of the most exclusive resorts in Southeast Asia.
Today, NIHI is still famous for its bucket-list wave, Occy’s Left, which permits only twelve surfers daily – but more recently, it has gained attention for its horses. Horses hold immense cultural significance to the Sumbanese people, and NIHI has a herd of native Sandalwood ponies that guests can ride, groom, and even bathe in the sea.
From 28 May until 2 June 2025, NIHI will host an Equine Intuitive Awareness Retreat, led by the property’s in-house Horse Whisperer, Carol Sharpe, where horse-loving attendees can spend six days immersed in the sacred rituals of local tribes and work closely with horses to heal their minds and spirits. This retreat sees NIHI as the first spa in the world to have horses located on-site full-time for wellness offerings.
Due to the lack of outside visitors until recent years, Sumba has clung tightly to its unique cultural practices and traditions. This is an island where much of the Indigenous population lives in kampungs (local villages known for their high thatched roofs), and where monolithic burial rituals and animal sacrifices are frequently practised and Buffalo are viewed as incredibly valuable currency. “Spend as much time talking to locals as possible. Sure, the beaches are stunning (really, really beautiful, actually), but it was the culture of Sumba that completely amazed me,” explains Dace. “You’re able to experience authentic Indonesia here, which is far harder to find nowadays.”
The properties on the island understand the importance of preserving the spirit of the island, and are collaborating with local communities to maintain Sumba’s rich cultural heritage while also aiming to contribute positively to the island’s economy and infrastructure long term. The most notable of these programs is run by NIHI, which has made waves in the responsible tourism sector by creating The Sumba Foundation. Since its inception, the project has made progress in tackling malnutrition, provided villages with clean drinking water, eradicated malaria, and equipped locals with professional skills through various training programs. Altruistic guests can also choose to give back by volunteering or visiting local villages and schools – a unique and highly recommended experience.
It’s a similar situation at The Sanubari. “We run training programs for locals, support the hospitality school by taking on interns, and we’ve even started a school where we are currently teaching around sixteen children from the nearby village,” says Burn. “We also collaborate with local artisans, promoting traditional crafts like wood carving and ikat weaving, helping convert local creative talent into sustainable businesses. We are trying to support from the ground up.”
The question is: what’s next for Sumba? Much of the south coast has already been purchased by developers, meaning that within the next five years, the island could begin to feel a little less “secret.” But the current residents aren’t worried. They maintain that with the right development and just the right amount of word of mouth, the island can preserve the magic that every visitor wants to bottle up and take home when it’s time to leave this little slice of paradise. We implore you: visit Sumba. But shhh, please don’t tell everyone, okay?