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Joe Ottaway Shares His Fashion Week Secrets - Lyst

The Man Behind Britain's Best-Dressed Men Shares His Style Secrets

 
 

 

ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED ON LYST - JANuary 2016

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Joe Ottaway is one of London menswear's most influential faces. The former head of personal shopping at Selfridges turned stylist and consultant is constantly photographed during Men’s Week, alongside his impeccably dressed clients including David Gandy and Jude Law. As he launches his own bespoke subscription styling service The Style Club, Joe shares his secret sartorial formula and explains why he thinks London is the global home of menswear.

LCM is coming up. What is it about London style that's so inimitable?

As the home of Savile Row and the birthplace of iconic styles from punk and the New Romantics as well as the classic tailored look, it’s about time London is recognized as a true destination for menswear. The rise of LCM [London Collections Men] over the last four or five years has just cemented this.

I think we’ve also noticed a shift in the way guys see fashion.Once upon a type a guy might not have felt comfortable talking to a stylist like me, but today especially in London, menswear is really flourishing. Twenty years ago we would have associated really well-dressed guys with Milan or Rome, but now London and New York are giving the Italian cities a run for their money—especially with guys like David Gandy and Thom Sweeney out on the streets.

Which designers are you most excited to see at LCM next weekend?

This LCM show that I'm really excited about is Gieves & Hawkes, because I really love classic British sartorial style. That will probably be my stand-out show. I'm also a huge fan of the guys at Thom Sweeney—their presentations are always very sharp.

Do you think that the rise of street wear is making gentlemanly style die out?

I think there will always be room for tailoring and suiting—we’ve already been wearing these styles for centuries. Men have always worn suits, whether it’s for work or for a wedding. Chances are a guy who loves Yeezy probably won’t wear it down the aisle!

The urban streetwear scene is fantastic and has been great for raising the profile of menswear both here in London and further afield, but I think it has a time and a place. True sartorial style is timeless—there will always be a point where a gent needs to wear a shirt and tie.

If a guy wants to invest in three pieces that won't date—what should they be?

I would say a good quality navy three-piece suit, a pair of good raw denim jeans and a classic pair of brogues. For the suit I’d probably look to Gieves & Hawkes who nail both off the peg and made-to-measure styles.

When it comes to brogues we are spoilt for choice here in London—but Church'sCrockett & Jones and Cheaney are all favourites. Scandinavian brands have mastered raw denim and I think  and Nudie Jeans are always a good option—and will last you years if you care for them correctly.

If he wants to invest in one key piece to update his closet this season what would you recommend?

This season is all about the suede bomber jacket. It’s a little bit of a luxury piece, but the bomber jacket is everywhere. It is of course, also a classic—suede styles have been worn by everyone from Steve McQueen in his classic Harrington jacket to Ryan Gosling in Crazy, Stupid Love. Even though it's such a key piece this year, you'll find yourself wearing it for seasons to come—so you won’t get buyer's remorse.

What can a guy do to start building his own personal style?

I think a gent's lifestyle is hugely important—where he works, what he does socially. You want your wardrobe to reflect how you live, and to be comfortable while you are getting on with things. If you are inspired by the world of Givenchy and Yeezy then embrace it—but don’t feel like you have to copy other people.

Go for what inspires you, but also what fits you well. When it comes to suiting guys are often a bit scared of that world, but it’s so easy to throw on a suit that fits you perfectly and look sharp. They key is to have your suits tailored. A few darts in a jacket or a couple of inches off a pair of suit trousers will make all the difference.

What is your number one dressing rule? And the biggest faux pas?

There are very few things that I would say that a guy shouldn't wear and I don’t ever like to be preachy about style. In saying that, bootcut jeans just don’t do it for me! My styling tip is a bit of a no-brainer, but it’s to get clothes that actually fit you. Lots of guys will wear suits that are too big or shirts that are too small which will mess with the lines of an outfit. It’s an easily remedied problem.

Who do you look up to?

I don’t think there are many guys around today that wear clothes really, really well but guys like Alasdhair Willis and David Gandy set the bar so high. I also find the British Royal Family hugely inspiring—Prince Michael of Kent and Prince Charles always look sharp.